Pairings
Wine-and-fish pairing: a Mediterranean practical guide
Pairing wine with fish is not complicated. Three principles — cooking method, fat, salinity — and the choice simplifies itself.
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Rule 1 — Follow the cooking method
Raw fish and light cooking (steam, salt, acqua pazza) call for fresh, mineral, non-aromatic whites: Ischia's Biancolella, Verdicchio, Vermentino. Rich cooking (grilled, baked, stewed) can handle more structured whites: Forastera, Fiano, riserva Falanghina.
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Rule 2 — Follow the fat
Oily fish (tuna, salmon, amberjack, mackerel) call for acidity that cleans the palate: sharp whites or dry rosés. Lean fish (sea bass, sea bream, dentex) prefer softer, more delicate whites.
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Rule 3 — Salinity with salinity
Mussels, clams, sea urchins, oysters and brined raw fish match well with 'sea' wines (from volcanic or coastal soils): Biancolella d'Ischia, Fiano di Ischia, Greco di Tufo, Assyrtiko.
04
Red wine with fish, yes
Yes, in two cases: red-fleshed fish (tuna, grilled amberjack) and rich fish soups. You want a medium-bodied red with lively acidity and soft tannins: Ischia Per'e Palummo, Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Alto Adige Pinot Nero.
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What to avoid
Full-tannin reds (Barolo, Amarone, Bordeaux) with fish: they destroy the dish and vice versa. Sweet or heavily oaked whites with raw fish: they cover the flavour.